A truly remarkable piece of fashion history. This Christian Dior London dress is the Ready-to-Wear version of the Paris Haute Couture dress from the Autumn 1954 "Mexique" collection. To add an additional echelon of influence, this piece is of the same year and collection that Dior unveiled yet another groundbreaking design device: the H-Line.
The H-Line was Christian Dior's newest inspiration and a rebellion against the ultra-cinched waists of his previous New Look with a silhouette consisting of a flattened and elongated bustline, a square-neck bodice with wide-set straps, a relaxed and undefined dropped waistline, and a voluminous skirt. This elegant new silhouette was highly controversial at its unveiling, but the skepticism quickly evolved to intrigue and the H-Line remained in favor with Dior until 1957. Although this dress is far from minimalist, Christian Dior's linear silhouette of the H-Line is said to have paved the way for the simple silhouettes of the 1960s.
C.D. Models label dating to Autumn/Winter 1954/1955. Iterations of this dress have been on display in museum exhibitions around the world including the 2019 V&A Dior: Designer of Dreams exhibition, in Berlin in 2007, and the collection of The NGV in Melbourne.
Missing the underdress which would have likely consisted of a boned corset and layered tulle petticoat stiffened with horsehair based on documentation of similar iterations of this design. Unlined. Photographed with a mid-sized petticoat (not included), but it could accommodate a more voluminous petticoat. Overall great condition, outside of the missing underdress. A few minor imperfections shown in photos. Very minimal sequin loss, less than a handful throughout the heavily embellished piece.
Christian Dior Autumn 1954 "Mexique" Details
All measurements in inches (centimeters)
COLLECTION
Autumn 1954 Mexique
PROVENANCE
Museum Exhibited
| Measurement |
Inches |
CM |
| Shoulder |
17 inches |
43 cm |
| Bust |
34 inches |
86 cm |
| Waist |
26 inches |
66 cm |
| Hip |
38 inches |
97 cm |
| Length |
48 inches |
122 cm |
Christian Dior London Autumn 1954 "Mexique" collection. RTW version of Paris Haute Couture original. H-Line silhouette — Dior's groundbreaking rebellion against the New Look. Square-neck bodice, wide-set straps, dropped waistline, voluminous skirt. C.D. Models label A/W 1954/1955. Heavily sequin-embellished. Museum exhibited: V&A Dior Designer of Dreams 2019, Berlin 2007, NGV Melbourne. Missing underdress, photographed with petticoat (not included). Great condition, minimal sequin loss. Remarkable fashion history. Paved the way for 1960s silhouettes.
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