Born into a life of privilege, she quickly escaped luxury so that she could focus on art and design in New York and then Paris. She launched a collection of knitwear in 1927, appeared in the pages of Vogue and expanded to swimwear, ski wear and linen dresses. The post-war era proved difficult for Schiaparelli and she officially closed her doors in 1954. After writing an autobiography, she lived between Paris and Tunisia until her death in 1973. She was grandmother to actress Marisa Berenson and the late Berry Berenson.

Elsa Schiaparelli (pictured above in her own design), autumn 1931. Photograph by Man Ray. c. 2012 Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York / ADAGP, Paris.

Wallis Simpson (pictured at right) in Elsa Schiaparelli, British Vogue, July 10, 1935. Photograph by Cecil Beaton / Vogue c. The Conde Nast Publications Ltd.

Doris sets out twice a year to canvass the world for the best in vintage fashion. This season she may just have cemented her status as iconic collector of fashion from the 1920′s by adding to her already significant and pristine selection of beaded and gold lamé flapper dresses.

On top of that, she’s acquired quite a few designer cocktail pieces and evening gowns as well as jewelry, accessories, and chic colorful hats.

As for the pièce de résistance, she has not one but two vintage Birkin bags in superior condition.

We do advise however that if you are interested in these items you must hurry because, when it comes to one-of-a-kind vintage fashion these sorts of things really do go fast!

For decades The Way We Wore® vintage boutique and research library has been known within the international fashion industry as a leading source of design inspiration with the likes of Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, Rodarte and more regularly tapping its resources. Now, thanks to last night’s episode of NBC’s Fashion Star, this vintage Mecca has been introduced to a new generation of aspiring designers.

The episode takes place under the watchful eye of mentor Nicole Richie who is also a customer of the store.

“Inspiration can be found in so many ways,” explains Doris Raymond, vintage collector and proprietor of the 30-year old business. “I’ve seen designers create entire collections off of something as small as a fabric swatch. They’re like kids in a candy store when they come here and you never know what fabric pattern, piece of jewelry or item of clothing might speak to them. It’s an amazing process to watch.”

Ms. Raymond has been mentoring designers for years with her extensive collection of vintage couture, clothing, shoes, jewelry and accessories from the 20th century. She is also a resource for collectors and museums worldwide who flock to her for her rare finds from early designers to ethnic costumes, American folk and more.

“Hollywood Swimsuits”

Hollywood has always been a driving force in fashion but its influence over the swimwear industry has a very interesting tale rich with celebrity, scandal and some very clever acts of showmanship.

As the film industry began to boom in the early part of the 20th century, so too did censorship. Hollywood producers were constantly looking for ways to popularize their movies by exposing the female form as much as possible without running into trouble from the government.  Relentless, determined and ingenious, they found a solution by creating a new genre in creative expression altogether  – the swim films.

The films gave Hollywood the freedom to expose more skin on a women than ever before imagined, all in the name of personal expression. Costume designers began to dip necklines lower and cut the legs higher for these new swimming goddesses. A few of the movies even featured athletes Annette Kellerman and Gertrude Ederle who found their own infamy when each was arrested during the early part of the 20th century for wearing what was considered scantily clad bathing suits as they attempted to perform athletic feats.

Women across the country began to take note. They were fed up with the full body suits they were required to wear which were made out of either wool, silk or cotton. These ensembles were not only uncomfortable and restrictive, they could also become quite odiferous in the hot sun.  As demand for modern swimwear began to grow one man was quick to capitalize on it. According to the book California Fashion Fred Cole, scion to a manufacturing company and founder of Cole of California, traipsed to New York one cold and dreary day in December, 1925. Here he presented the first-ever collection of Hollywood inspired swimwear to a buyer at Macy’s.  Once she overcame her initial shock she took swift action to place an order for a January delivery and the resort selling season was born. This out of then box thinking would forever bring an end to cumbersome beachwear.

Realizing the long-term potential for his company, Cole set about creating brilliant promotions that had fashion’s jaded east coast elite eating out of the palm of his hand. For the first time in the history of American fashion, buyers and critics would travel seasonally by train and airplane  to be wined, dined and shop the California market. Their visits to Los Angeles would give rise to competitors such as Catalina, Mabs of Hollywood and other designers and labels that would benefit from the development of fashion’s new category. It was then that California’s fashion industry was truly born.

Fred Cole would go on to push the envelope on fashion forward resort wear by working with designer Margit Fellegi, known as the “first lady of swimwear”, who brought not only shape and structure to the suits but also created new techniques. By incorporating elastic into her cotton fabrications, Fellegi afforded women freedom of movement and flexibility in their play garments. She would go on to design for Cole for 40 years. Her contemporaries Jo Lathwood, Mary Ann DeWeese, Rose Marie Reid and Christian Dior himself, who at one point designed suits for the Cole label, would continue to take California casual to glamorous heights.  Reid in particular created stunning looks in suits that were boned, shirred and beaded to provide the ultimate in femininity – the hourglass shape.

Things began to change in the 1960′s when Rudi Gernreich created the topless bathing suit and the thong. The bikini, originally invented in France, would begin to take hold thanks to a push from Jo Lathwood who designed for Catalina. In the 1980′s, California’s lifestyle began to moved towards active sports and it was during this time that Robin Piccone would create the first neoprene suits for Body Glove. Form, function and sex appeal began to take on a whole new direction.

Today, anything goes in fashion and that includes swimwear. Whether it’s the barely there bikini as featured on Sports Illustrated’s special edition covers, or a return to designer maillots and high-waisted two-pieces, one thing’s for sure – the inspiration has always come from the beaches of California.

MOCA’s exhibition, The Total Look: The Creative Collaboration Between Rudi Gernreich, Peggy Moffitt, and William Claxton is on view at the Pacific Design Center through May 27, 2012.

He famously designed the black dress worn by Demi Moore in Indecent Proposal and went on to create wildly successful fragrances, books and short films. Mugler has collaborated on costumes for artists such as Beyonce and Dita Von Teese. In 2010, Nicola Formichetti was announced as the new creative director of Thierry Mugler.

Pictured is a sky blue gown made from semi-sheer chiffon with asymmetrical pleats from the bust in a Grecian style. Visit 1stdibs for more information.

1970’s Hanae Mori Floral Silk Gown with Chiffon Jacket

Now Available on 1st Dibs

 Image 1:

Fun, Fun, Fun in the California Sun by Anja Van Herle

Pierre Cardin Late 1960s Graphic Ensemble

Sant’Angelo 1970′s Color Block Ensemble

Image 2:

Summertime by Anja Van Herle

Halston Bronze Sequin Zip Jacket

1960′s Pierre Cardin Color Block Linen Dress

Image 3:

Go Green by Anja Van Herle

Gernreich Two Piece Tunic with Matching Stockings

1980′s Patrick Kelly Peekaboo Chevron Sweater Dress